1991-2002 Saturn Manual Trans Shifter Bushing Main Cable Replacement End Loop

$29.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store saturnbushingman
(3521) 100.0%,

Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Ships to: US,
Item: 124019287918

Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer
Returns Accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:14 Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Type:Shifter Cable
Part Brand:JCB
Items Included:Shifter Joint
Shift Linkage Type:Cable End Fixed Loop
Country of Manufacture:United States
Surface Finish:machined
Transmission Type:Manual

Saturn Manual Shifter Cable Replacement End Loop Proudly Made in America! Has the molded plastic end loop on the main shifter cable of your 1999-2002 Saturn S-series [SL, SW, SC] 5-speed broken off? Have you been told you now have to spend $500-$700 to replace the shifter cables? Have you considered that new shifter cables have the very same molded plastic end loop which will one day separate just like the one which just did? This precision-machined replacement end loop [design’s CAD drawing copyright 2007 by JCB] easily attaches to the bare cable end shaft and allows you to continue to use your otherwise perfectly serviceable shifter cables! Hundreds of Saturn owners have already saved the unnecessary expense of new shifter cables by installing this end loop themselves–and so can you! [Does not fit Saturn Vue or L-Series.] MATERIAL: This improved end loop is precision-machined from tough slippery Moly-impregnated nylon and is compatible with both my stainless steel and Delrin replacement shifter bushings. EASY INSTALLATION: Simply insert the bare cable end shaft into the opening in the edge of the end loop, orient the end loop vertically, and secure by tightening the two set screws with dog-toothed end grips using the Allen wrench provided. The set screws have already been treated with Vibra-Tite thread grip to insure that they will remain securely in place over time. Swab a tiny bit of the included Teflon powder inside the end loop, and connect to the shifter with your stainless or Delrin shifter bushing. [See the Installation Guide below for more details.] SUPPORT: Free installation support is offered via email and phone, so your success is assured! PRECISION: These end loops are precision CNC-machined to a tolerance of less than a thousandth of an inch, not molded like Saturn’s original end loop. During production, sample end loops are fitted onto a polished stainless steel bushing to verify that final fit is exactly right. This assures that your end loop installation will proceed easily and remain problem-free. FIT AND FEEL: This new end loop is sized to securely capture the shifter bushing with free rotation but no detectable free play. Although Moly-impregnated nylon is inherently self-lubricating, powdered Teflon is included to further enhance the smooth feel of each shift as well as provide an extra measure of protection against bushing or end loop wear, assuring that your shifter continues to feel new for years to come. LIFETIME WARRANTY AND SAFETY: For as long as you own your Saturn, if this end loop should ever wear out or break, simply return what is left for a free replacement. For your own safety, consider installing this end loop BEFORE your present end loop separates to avoid the unsafe condition of becoming suddenly shiftless as well as majorly inconvenienced. START SHIFTING AGAIN TODAY: If your old separated end loop has left you stranded, consider temporarily clamping a side-terminal battery cable terminal to the shifter cable end shaft and securing it to the shifter with a pair of nylon zip-ties, cable ties, or a small bungee cord with zip ties securing the end hooks together. [Enlarge the main opening of the soft lead terminal with a drill or round file to accommodate your stub shaft.] This is good for several weeks of gentle shifting, and will allow you to complete the permanent repair at your convenience after your new end loop arrives. SUPER-FAST SHIPPING: Your end loop ships promptly via eBay Shipping Services, generally the same day if your PayPal payment is completed before 3pm weekdays or 2pm Saturday EST. REAL WORLD DELIVERY TIMES: While eBay’s overly-optimistic “on or before” estimates are misleading, USPS does complete delivery of most First Class parcels within their publicized norm of 3 to 5 days after shipment. However, USPS continues to misroute about 1 in 50 shipments, and on rare occasions delivery has taken a month or more. Priority Mail is recommended because it consistently arrives in 2-3 days. USPS promises domestic Express Mail delivery in one, two, or three days depending on locations’ dispatch times. Express Mail’s default signature requirement, which helps protect against delivery errors, can be waived if requested in a Note to Seller during checkout. International Priority is typically delivered 3 to 5 days after being cleared by your Customs. COMBINED BUSHING SHIPPING: Your end loop purchase ships for free when you also purchase one of my stainless steel or Delrin shifter bushings and place both items in your eBay shopping cart before checkout. If your OEM Saturn bushing has not yet failed, replacing it now will save you from being stranded when it does. Even if it looks OK, OEM bushings with any length of service may already be too brittle to be removed and reinstalled without splitting. FEEDBACK: After your end loop is installed, please mention what you like about it in your feedback. If there’s anything you didn’t like, please let me know before posting feedback. I post positive feedback regularly in response to same. CABLE END LOOP FAILURE MYTH: Some have suggested that installing a fail-proof shifter bushing can cause the cable end loop to become separated from its shaft in the months that follow. While that is not true, here is why it might seem to be: It is well-documented that the most common failure with Saturn’s M/T shifting system is fracture of the main shifter cable bushing. However, Saturn mechanics do occasionally see an end loop separated from its shaft while still held to the shifter by an intact OEM bushing. This shows that the end loop’s attachment to its shaft has its own limited service life, although in most Saturns that limit is longer than that of the shifter bushing, which typically fails first. GM’s “remedy” of repairing bushing failure by installing new shifter cables also renews the service life of the molded cable end loop. As a result, end loop separation seldom occurs in dealer-maintained Saturns. In contrast, when a fractured bushing is repaired by installing only a new bushing, the existing cables and end loop continue to remain in use. Whenever the end loop may later separate, it does so only because the end loop has been allowed to reach the normal end of its service life. Special Limited-Time Offer: FREE PRIORITY MAIL SHIPPING for domestic buyers when ordering both a cable end-loop and either my [saturnbushingman] Delrin shifter bushing or stainless steel bushing, and placing both in your eBay Shopping Cart before checkout. [International buyers with qualifying purchases will receive a $5 partial refund of their combined International Priority shipping.] If Ebay does not automatically adjust shipping correctly for this promotion, please go ahead and pay the shipping charge Ebay requires. I will promptly refund the ENTIRE shipping charge and ship your bushing and end loop together within the USA for free via USPS Priority Mail! Please send an eBay message with any questions. Thanks! Jerry Note: Above photos of a new end loop installation are courtesy of Adam Ploessl, whose shifter was previously fitted with one of my stainless steel shifter bushings. CABLE END LOOP INSTALLATION GUIDE If your cable’s OEM molded end loop has not already separated from the cable core end shaft, you can remove it easily using a drill or Dremel tool with a cutting wheel or rotary file. Alternately, a sharp pair of diagonal cutters will let you nibble it away. Because of risk of injury, a utility knive should only be used to shave away any thin plastic left after the bulk of the end loop has been removed by other means. Clamping the shaft with a pair of ViseGrips to use as a handle will let you hold and position it securely. Take care to recover the full shaft length from within the molded OEM end loop, and avoid accidentally cutting into the shaft which would weaken or shorten it. Once the shaft is clean, remove the tip of the shaft by completing the partial scoring which the factory created to give the molded end loop something to grip. It turns out that the factory score sufficiently weakens the shaft at that point such that the shaft can fracture, releasing the tip of the shaft with its anchored end loop, leaving you in the same “shiftless” state as the more common bushing failure. Temporarily release the Visegrips before orienting the end-loop on the untwisted cable shaft so the set screws are straight up and down. Snug the readily accessible upper set screw to hold the end loop in position. Reattach the visegrips to rotate the end shaft clockwise to expose the lower set screw for easier access. [The cable’s core of twisted steel strands will readily accept a quarter-turn of rotation, as it normally does during 1st/Reverse gate-change.] It is highly recommended that you enhance the grip of the set screws by filing shallow flats across the curve of the cable end shaft where each set screw will contact the shaft. To locate the flats, install the end loop as described above, but only tighten the set screws enough for their dog-toothed tips to mark the end shaft. Slightly back out each set screw to remove the end loop and reposition your Visegrips up close to where the flats are to be filed to act as a stop-guide against the face of the flat file whose edge will cut each flat. Adjust the Visegrip’s position according to the thickness of your file so that the flat will stop approximately 1/8″ short of the very tip of the end shaft, the edge of which remains marked by the factory scoring, leaving a clean un-filed collar at the tip which will “interfere” and block the end loop set screws from sliding beyond the flats and off the shaft. Cover the broad face of the file with plastic packing tape to allow it to glide freely against the Visegrip guide without filing the tool. Cut only until each flat is only as wide across the curve of the shaft as the set screw marks, which will be about 20 thousandths deep at the peak of the shaft’s curve [or about the thickness of a fingernail]. Take care to hold the file firmly against the Visegrip guide so the flats’ edges are cleanly defined from the curve of the shaft. While adding the second flat, frequently compare it’s orientation to the first flat and keep it as parallel to the first one as possible. The set screws need to be hand-torqued with limited tightness to avoid stripping the relatively tiny threads cut in the end loop’s plastic [albeit pretty tough plastic!]. The two-inch arm of the included allen wrench should help to safe-limit the hand-applied torque. Tiny dog-teeth on the tips of the set screws grip most effectively the first time they dig into the surface of the cable shaft without being backed out, so please avoid loosening the set screws to “test” their grip. Once tightened, their already applied Vibra-Tite thread coating will insure that the set screws won’t loosen over time. Swab a tiny amount of Teflon powder around the inside of the end-loop before inserting the bushing. None should be applied directly to a Delrin replacment bushing, or to the shifter’s ball-end stub shaft, but Teflon powder may be applied to an already installed stainless steel bushing. Complete your installation as appropriate for the type of bushing you are using. Copyright 2012 by JCB After purchasing, pay instantly with your credit card through PayPal!

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